EST 1978-2024
TIPS AND TRICKS
Our "tips & helpful hints" section should in no way be considered exhaustive or conclusive, but rather ideas gleaned from over forty years of accumulated experiences in the field. Naturally, the final authority on your particular appliance will be the literature supplied with that unit.
Also you must know your limits as far as what you are able to do in regard to aptitude, lifting ability etc.
That being said, we hope you find these tips helpful. Stop back from time to time as we intend to modify and add information.
Also you must know your limits as far as what you are able to do in regard to aptitude, lifting ability etc.
That being said, we hope you find these tips helpful. Stop back from time to time as we intend to modify and add information.
Efficiency- any dryer, gas or electric, is only as efficient as it's ability to "breathe". The dryer is counting on a good air flow to draw hot air from the heat chamber (where the heat coils or gas flame is) across the clothes and out the vent. Anything that reduces the air flow kills efficiency. This can cause longer drying times and overheat the clothes and/or the heat chamber. This can eventually lead to a premature burnout of the heater. It also can be a fire hazard.
Things to be aware of:
Things to be aware of:
Lint filter (first and foremost). Clean before every load. Also certain conditions can cause a fabric softener or other residue to stick to the screen and may restrict the filter even if it looks clean. A simple test is to run water through it at the sink. if it doesn't flow through easily, clean it with a soft bristle brush and warm water. If there are any holes in the filter, replace it.
Vent line. Oftentimes vent lines get crushed or folded up behind the dryer or elsewhere. This is also a restriction and needs to be corrected. Remember, plastic or flammable duct is not approved for dryer venting. There are vent cleaning kits available commercially or you can have it done professionally. If your dryer cabinet gets hot or uncomfortably warm to touch during one or two loads this could be a sign of poor venting. It may also be a sign of dryer malfunction.
Vent line. Oftentimes vent lines get crushed or folded up behind the dryer or elsewhere. This is also a restriction and needs to be corrected. Remember, plastic or flammable duct is not approved for dryer venting. There are vent cleaning kits available commercially or you can have it done professionally. If your dryer cabinet gets hot or uncomfortably warm to touch during one or two loads this could be a sign of poor venting. It may also be a sign of dryer malfunction.
DRYERS
Be sure your fill-hose screens are free of dirt/sediment (especially the cold water screen). If you have a tendency to get silt or sand etc. in your water it will typically end up in your cold water screen and therefore slow down the cold water flow (on the hot side it usually settles out in the water heater). This can make for long fill times (especially in the rinse cycle) and also cause a "warm" wash cycle to be much hotter. The result- Higher hot water consumption, longer wash times and possibly damaging certain delicate items. NEVER remove the screens and leave them out!
Be careful of overloading, especially in a top load washer. In most top load washers the clothes should float in the water. This permits them to circulate in the basket during the wash cycle and each item gets its turn at the agitator fins at the bottom. Also make sure that the water level selector (if you have one) is set high enough for the load you have.
Front load washers have very good washability, usually very high spin speeds (which leads to shorter drying times), and lower water consumption (sometimes half or less). They can also be easier on clothes. Some things to keep in mind:
Be careful of overloading, especially in a top load washer. In most top load washers the clothes should float in the water. This permits them to circulate in the basket during the wash cycle and each item gets its turn at the agitator fins at the bottom. Also make sure that the water level selector (if you have one) is set high enough for the load you have.
Front load washers have very good washability, usually very high spin speeds (which leads to shorter drying times), and lower water consumption (sometimes half or less). They can also be easier on clothes. Some things to keep in mind:
Less water means use less detergent. (a good thing)
You should always use HE (hight efficiency) detergents as they are lower sudsing. Over sudsing can affect the efficiency of a front loader causing poor wash results and poor spin speeds.
Some front loading washers have been known to get a "musty" odor after a while. To combat this some models have incorporated an optional cycle to clean themselves. There are also products available to help flush away residual soap scum and fabric softener, and therefore reduce the chance of musty odors. Also leaving the door ajar when the unit is not in use will permit it to dry out and reduce mildew growth.
You should always use HE (hight efficiency) detergents as they are lower sudsing. Over sudsing can affect the efficiency of a front loader causing poor wash results and poor spin speeds.
Some front loading washers have been known to get a "musty" odor after a while. To combat this some models have incorporated an optional cycle to clean themselves. There are also products available to help flush away residual soap scum and fabric softener, and therefore reduce the chance of musty odors. Also leaving the door ajar when the unit is not in use will permit it to dry out and reduce mildew growth.
Shaking and vibration can be a complaint with any washer. Sometimes the issue is with the unit but more often the problem lies in how stout the floor is under the washer. Remember that washers these days weigh much less than ones from twenty to thirty years ago, and are therefore less able to absorb their own vibration. If you feel there is a shaking problem stand close to the washer (about one foot away) and see if you can "feel" the floor flex up and down while the unit is shaking. If you can, the floor may be part of the problem.
WASHERS
Washability; A dishwasher cleans as the wash arms rotate and are able to shoot streams of hot water with detergent onto the dishes, cups etc. If things are stacked on top of each other to prevent direct contact with the water streams, this will affect washability. Different brands and models have different ways of accomplishing this. Be familiar with what your use and care manual advises.
Water temperature. Sufficient water temperature is important for good results. Years ago most water heaters were factory preset at 140F degrees. This was fine for dishwashers. However in more recent years the temperature slowly dropped to around 120F degrees or lower as result of scalding worries and energy awareness. Naturally the dishwashers weren't very happy. This made them have to squirt water from more places and maybe heat it themselves (and use less energy in the process). Things you can do to help:
Water temperature. Sufficient water temperature is important for good results. Years ago most water heaters were factory preset at 140F degrees. This was fine for dishwashers. However in more recent years the temperature slowly dropped to around 120F degrees or lower as result of scalding worries and energy awareness. Naturally the dishwashers weren't very happy. This made them have to squirt water from more places and maybe heat it themselves (and use less energy in the process). Things you can do to help:
Run the hot water at the nearest sink. This flushes the cold water from the line and lets the dishwasher get hot water faster.
Use the proper amount of detergent. More isn't always better. Too much detergent can etch or cloud certain items.
Be familiar with your particular model/brand (again with the use and care manual). Some units have screens or filters that require attention periodically. others have "macerators" which help grind up soft foods (not chicken bones and olive pits).
Many detergents have a shelf life. A super fantastic sale may mean it's outdated and may not produce optimum results.
Rinse aids are very effective at preventing water droplets from accumulating on the wash load (especially plastic-ware) and aids in drying.
Use the proper amount of detergent. More isn't always better. Too much detergent can etch or cloud certain items.
Be familiar with your particular model/brand (again with the use and care manual). Some units have screens or filters that require attention periodically. others have "macerators" which help grind up soft foods (not chicken bones and olive pits).
Many detergents have a shelf life. A super fantastic sale may mean it's outdated and may not produce optimum results.
Rinse aids are very effective at preventing water droplets from accumulating on the wash load (especially plastic-ware) and aids in drying.
New installation. For many years dishwashers had "drain valves" which kept the water in the unit during the cycles regardless of how the drain line was installed. Not so today. There are no domestic dishwashers now (that I'm aware of) that utilize a drain valve. This means that drain line installation is more critical. Improper drain line installation may result in premature siphoning of the water out of the tub (resulting in poor washability) or may not hold water at all. Be sure the manufacturers' installation instructions are followed. Normally when you hook up to a garbage disposal under the kitchen sink or another fitting in that area there is no problem. A certain percentage of our service calls on new installations are in regard to this.
Dishwasher cleaners. If you have certain water conditions such as high alkaline, high iron content etc. it can leave a film on not only your dishes and glasses but also on the entire inside of the dishwasher. This film can be brown in color or yellow or even white "crusty" residue.There are dishwasher cleaners that are commercially available or you may be able to use granular citric acid which is sometimes used in canning or cheese-making. It may be available at pharmacies or certain hardware stores (take note of handling instructions as citric acid is mildly caustic). White vinegar can also be used but it is very mild and may take several applications in heavier buildup situations. Just put these cleaners in as you would use the regular detergent and put in the dishes and glasses that are affected and run the unit.
Dishwasher cleaners. If you have certain water conditions such as high alkaline, high iron content etc. it can leave a film on not only your dishes and glasses but also on the entire inside of the dishwasher. This film can be brown in color or yellow or even white "crusty" residue.There are dishwasher cleaners that are commercially available or you may be able to use granular citric acid which is sometimes used in canning or cheese-making. It may be available at pharmacies or certain hardware stores (take note of handling instructions as citric acid is mildly caustic). White vinegar can also be used but it is very mild and may take several applications in heavier buildup situations. Just put these cleaners in as you would use the regular detergent and put in the dishes and glasses that are affected and run the unit.
DISHWASHERS
Efficiency- All refrigerators, freezers and air conditioners work on the same basic idea; For every unit of cold that they generate they must generate and equal amount of heat. The easier they can get rid of that heat the easier and more efficiently they can make the cold. How your unit gets rid of it's heat is probably one of three ways.
On some units the condenser coils (they are the hot coils) are mounted on the outside back of the cabinet. When these coils get hot they just count on gravity of air flow to take the heat away. These units usually require a minimum of air space around the cabinet to let the heat flow away. Your use and care manual should tell you how much air gap is required.
Another more popular method of heat dissipation is to take those condenser coils, fold them up and tuck them under the cabinet by the compressor. Then they put a small fan down there to move air through the coils. This design doesn't usually need as much air space around the cabinet. However because the air is fan forced, as it sucks the air through the coils it also draws dust, lint etc. These coils tend to get coated with debris much faster and should be cleaned probably once or twice a year. (or maybe more often if you have pets). If the coils get plugged w/ lint, animal hair and dust bunnies it will cause your compressor to run hotter and longer causing inefficiency and higher power consumption. It can also shorten it's overall life expectancy.
The third way to get rid of heat (more common on some freezers, small refrigerators and wine coolers) is to put those hot condenser coils just underneath the outer skin of the appliance. These units will typically feel warm to touch on the outside of the cabinet while the unit is running. You don't need to keep the coils clean on these models but they do count on air flow around the cabinet to take away the heat. Therefore don't pile stuff up against the cabinet, stack things on top or tuck the appliance into a tight enclosed space.
Whichever method yours uses to dissipate heat, if you keep these tips in mind you can help keep it running at peak efficiency, keep power consumption down and prolong it's life.Another more popular method of heat dissipation is to take those condenser coils, fold them up and tuck them under the cabinet by the compressor. Then they put a small fan down there to move air through the coils. This design doesn't usually need as much air space around the cabinet. However because the air is fan forced, as it sucks the air through the coils it also draws dust, lint etc. These coils tend to get coated with debris much faster and should be cleaned probably once or twice a year. (or maybe more often if you have pets). If the coils get plugged w/ lint, animal hair and dust bunnies it will cause your compressor to run hotter and longer causing inefficiency and higher power consumption. It can also shorten it's overall life expectancy.
The third way to get rid of heat (more common on some freezers, small refrigerators and wine coolers) is to put those hot condenser coils just underneath the outer skin of the appliance. These units will typically feel warm to touch on the outside of the cabinet while the unit is running. You don't need to keep the coils clean on these models but they do count on air flow around the cabinet to take away the heat. Therefore don't pile stuff up against the cabinet, stack things on top or tuck the appliance into a tight enclosed space.
Door gaskets- Having proper door seal is another concern. We don't want warm room air sneaking into the cabinet while the doors are shut. Make sure that the gaskets are kept clean. Even tiny amounts of splattered jelly, syrup etc. can eventually cause gaskets to stick to the cabinet. As the doors open and close it can tear or distort them. If a door gasket is sealing properly you should be able to close the door on a dollar bill and feel resistance when you pull the bill out. Do this around the whole perimeter of the door to check sealing.
Unheated rooms/garages- Refrigerator-freezers are designed to fight a heat load which means that, on many models, the room must be above 55-60 degrees for proper operation. If the room temperature is in the 30's - 40's the refrigerator might not think it needs to turn on. Slowly the freezer temperature will climb up toward the refrig temperature. Then things such as ice-cream would turn into soup. If you intend to put a refrigerator in a garage there are units built for just such a purpose. Your owners manual should tell you if there are minimum room temperatures for your unit.
Cold spots in the fresh food compartment- In most frost free refrigerator-freezers the cold is generated in the freezer section and a small amount of it is blown into the fresh food section. Just where this cold air enters the refrigerator section depends on it's design. But wherever the cold air comes in tends to be cooler than other spots. Sometimes when the fridge is working for long periods these cold spots may be around freezing. If you identify cold spots that happen occasionally in your fresh food section keep in mind that's not where you want to put your lettuce but rather the OJ, milk or beer.
Unheated rooms/garages- Refrigerator-freezers are designed to fight a heat load which means that, on many models, the room must be above 55-60 degrees for proper operation. If the room temperature is in the 30's - 40's the refrigerator might not think it needs to turn on. Slowly the freezer temperature will climb up toward the refrig temperature. Then things such as ice-cream would turn into soup. If you intend to put a refrigerator in a garage there are units built for just such a purpose. Your owners manual should tell you if there are minimum room temperatures for your unit.
Cold spots in the fresh food compartment- In most frost free refrigerator-freezers the cold is generated in the freezer section and a small amount of it is blown into the fresh food section. Just where this cold air enters the refrigerator section depends on it's design. But wherever the cold air comes in tends to be cooler than other spots. Sometimes when the fridge is working for long periods these cold spots may be around freezing. If you identify cold spots that happen occasionally in your fresh food section keep in mind that's not where you want to put your lettuce but rather the OJ, milk or beer.
FREEZERS AND REFRIGERATORS
Heading DEHUMIDIFERS
Heading DEHUMIDIFERS
Dehumidifiers have become quite popular in recent years (especially with the damp weather we've had lately). Here are a few pointers:These units have to move air through them efficiently in order to be effective. Some have air filters and some don't. These filters should be checked occasionally to maintain good air flow. even if your unit doesn't have a filter the coils should be checked and cleaned (this may require some partial dis-assembly - check your use and care guide). If the coils get restricted it will not only become inefficient but will cause the compressor to overheat. This can shorten your life expectancy and also give you little or no return for the electricity you're using (which can be as much as a full size refrigerator). Too often they are put in a cellar or crawl-space and forgotten about.
A dehumidifier operates most efficiently at around 60 - 65 degrees room temperature or above. Some units are designed to operate as low as 45 degrees but will lose some efficiency. If you know your room may drop to these cooler temperatures be sure your unit is designed for this.
Whether you have your unit fill it's own bucked (which you have to empty) or you attach it to a hose to a floor drain, the drain fitting may need to be flushed once in a while (see use and care guide for procedure). A plugged drain could often manifest itself as water on the floor.
A dehumidifier is not a "set it and forget it" appliance. If you can keep the air filter (if you have one), the coils and the drain line clear of debris it should not only last longer but also get better results for the electricity you are using.
A dehumidifier operates most efficiently at around 60 - 65 degrees room temperature or above. Some units are designed to operate as low as 45 degrees but will lose some efficiency. If you know your room may drop to these cooler temperatures be sure your unit is designed for this.
Whether you have your unit fill it's own bucked (which you have to empty) or you attach it to a hose to a floor drain, the drain fitting may need to be flushed once in a while (see use and care guide for procedure). A plugged drain could often manifest itself as water on the floor.
A dehumidifier is not a "set it and forget it" appliance. If you can keep the air filter (if you have one), the coils and the drain line clear of debris it should not only last longer but also get better results for the electricity you are using.
NOTES ON SEASONAL HOMES
NOTES ON SEASONAL HOMES
OVENS AND RANGES
OVENS AND RANGES
Most of todays cooking appliances are designed to be more accurate. Sometimes replacing your 25 year old range with a new one can be quite a culinary experience. Some of todays ranges are designed to be calibrated by the consumer if necessary. If so the instructions will be in your manual. The problem with doing that is you need an oven thermometer that reads temperature quickly and accurately. Too many department store oven thermometers are neither. They don't even agree with each other while sitting on the store shelf. But if you do decide to check your oven temperature make sure you place the thermometer in the center of the oven. Too close to the bottom and you may pickup radiant heat from the bake element (which may be 1200 degrees or more when it's red). One manufacturer suggested putting a tray of water in the oven during the test to simulate a cooking load.
Lining your racks with aluminum foil can help keep things cleaner but keep a couple things in mind. When you line the rack with foil keep the covered area as small as possible; just enough to contain the potential spill. If you cover too big of an area you can interfere with air circulation in the oven. This can give you false temperatures because the source of heat is usually at the bottom of the oven and the thermostat sensor is usually at the top. This can even happen in convection ovens. Also if you line your oven bottom try not to let the foil rest against the bake element (in electric ovens) and be especially careful of not covering any openings on the floor of a gas oven. This is where the heat enters the oven from the gas flame.
Simmering adjustments on gas ranges. If you feel your simmer setting is too high on your gas cooktop it may be adjustable. Some are even adjustable by the consumer. Your owners manual will tell you. Keep in mind if you're adjusted too low and your burner is close to an open window, a breeze could blow it out while your back is turned.
Drip bowls are on certain range tops to help collect spills. They are also there to reflect heat back up into the pot or pan. If they get real dirty or tarnished they lose that ability and let more heat collect under the burner. Generic replacements are available and even OEM parts are not usually expensive.
Glass top ranges are relatively easy to keep clean. The radiant tops of today are a lot more efficient than the glass tops of the 70's and 80's. Still a few things are worth mentioning. Flat bottom cookware is still important. The more of the pan that actually contacts the glass means better heat transfer and more even cooking. If your cooking utensil is only touching the glass at a few points heat can get trapped in the burner area. This shows up sometimes when you put a pot on "high" (say to boil water) and you notice the burner cycles off too often. What may be happening is the heat buildup in the burner is causing the safety to shut it down for a few seconds. This is to keep the glass from cracking due to extreme hot spots. A pretty accurate way to determine a flat bottom pot or pan is to lay a strait edge across the bottom of it (a ruler or whatever). You can even use the corner edge of your counter top. If your pan bottom is concave you will see a gap somewhere in the middle. Good quality cookware is a definite plus but remember extreme overheating will warp even the good stuff.
Lining your racks with aluminum foil can help keep things cleaner but keep a couple things in mind. When you line the rack with foil keep the covered area as small as possible; just enough to contain the potential spill. If you cover too big of an area you can interfere with air circulation in the oven. This can give you false temperatures because the source of heat is usually at the bottom of the oven and the thermostat sensor is usually at the top. This can even happen in convection ovens. Also if you line your oven bottom try not to let the foil rest against the bake element (in electric ovens) and be especially careful of not covering any openings on the floor of a gas oven. This is where the heat enters the oven from the gas flame.
Simmering adjustments on gas ranges. If you feel your simmer setting is too high on your gas cooktop it may be adjustable. Some are even adjustable by the consumer. Your owners manual will tell you. Keep in mind if you're adjusted too low and your burner is close to an open window, a breeze could blow it out while your back is turned.
Drip bowls are on certain range tops to help collect spills. They are also there to reflect heat back up into the pot or pan. If they get real dirty or tarnished they lose that ability and let more heat collect under the burner. Generic replacements are available and even OEM parts are not usually expensive.
Glass top ranges are relatively easy to keep clean. The radiant tops of today are a lot more efficient than the glass tops of the 70's and 80's. Still a few things are worth mentioning. Flat bottom cookware is still important. The more of the pan that actually contacts the glass means better heat transfer and more even cooking. If your cooking utensil is only touching the glass at a few points heat can get trapped in the burner area. This shows up sometimes when you put a pot on "high" (say to boil water) and you notice the burner cycles off too often. What may be happening is the heat buildup in the burner is causing the safety to shut it down for a few seconds. This is to keep the glass from cracking due to extreme hot spots. A pretty accurate way to determine a flat bottom pot or pan is to lay a strait edge across the bottom of it (a ruler or whatever). You can even use the corner edge of your counter top. If your pan bottom is concave you will see a gap somewhere in the middle. Good quality cookware is a definite plus but remember extreme overheating will warp even the good stuff.
One of the things that can really dampen your holiday or long weekend getaway is to come up and turn on the house and hear water squirting somewhere or see a growing puddle on the floor. And even though our technicians are good looking they are probably not one of the first faces you want to see when you come up. So some suggestions on winterizing your house. If a house is to be shut down completely (no heat or water) it can be a challenge. Most plumbing systems aren't pitched to provide gravity drainage when the system is shut down. And even if they are it doesn't guarantee that the water will be drawn out of the plastic valve bodies on the dishwasher, ice-maker, washer etc. Sometimes the only sure thing is to disconnect the water line at the appliance valve and let that couple of tablespoons of water drain out. Some valves seem to be more vulnerable than others and sometimes even if you do nothing at the valve you can get away with it. For complete house draining it's best to get a plumber.
If you keep your house minimally heated in the winter there are a few other things to keep in mind. If you keep it set at around 40 degrees to avoid freezing remember there can be power outages for hours or longer while your gone. Also if your refrigerator or dishwasher is against an outside wall (especially with northern exposure) and we have one of those bitter cold, windy nights, enough cold may be able to penetrate the wall and affect the water valves etc. Remember the dishwasher has panels that can prevent room heat from getting back under it. Another problem we've seen is when you have a cellar (especially when only partially underground) that is minimally heated. A thermometer can read 40 degrees at eye level and still be freezing down by your feet. Most clothes washers have their drain pump down close to the floor and can be affected by this. If you suspect freezing temps down near the floor let the room heat up for awhile to give things a chance to thaw. Often times a washer pump can freeze and not be damaged if you let it thaw before turning it on.
If you shut the house water off when your gone for long periods (usually a good idea) remember to shut off your ice-maker too. Your manual should tell you how. If your ice-maker activates without water pressure but only water in the pipes trickling backwards from,say, the upstairs bathroom sink, it could cause the fill tube to your ice-maker to build up with ice and stop the flow. This would stop ice production.
Refrigerator-freezers left in an unheated or cool room can give false temperatures. Things may thaw and re-freeze in the freezer section on certain models (This is also mentioned in our refrigerator tip section). It might be worth mentioning too that the refrigerator wont warm things up if the room is real cold. If it is 15 degrees in the room for a long time it will eventually get that cold in the fresh food section and pop goes the soda!
If you keep your house minimally heated in the winter there are a few other things to keep in mind. If you keep it set at around 40 degrees to avoid freezing remember there can be power outages for hours or longer while your gone. Also if your refrigerator or dishwasher is against an outside wall (especially with northern exposure) and we have one of those bitter cold, windy nights, enough cold may be able to penetrate the wall and affect the water valves etc. Remember the dishwasher has panels that can prevent room heat from getting back under it. Another problem we've seen is when you have a cellar (especially when only partially underground) that is minimally heated. A thermometer can read 40 degrees at eye level and still be freezing down by your feet. Most clothes washers have their drain pump down close to the floor and can be affected by this. If you suspect freezing temps down near the floor let the room heat up for awhile to give things a chance to thaw. Often times a washer pump can freeze and not be damaged if you let it thaw before turning it on.
If you shut the house water off when your gone for long periods (usually a good idea) remember to shut off your ice-maker too. Your manual should tell you how. If your ice-maker activates without water pressure but only water in the pipes trickling backwards from,say, the upstairs bathroom sink, it could cause the fill tube to your ice-maker to build up with ice and stop the flow. This would stop ice production.
Refrigerator-freezers left in an unheated or cool room can give false temperatures. Things may thaw and re-freeze in the freezer section on certain models (This is also mentioned in our refrigerator tip section). It might be worth mentioning too that the refrigerator wont warm things up if the room is real cold. If it is 15 degrees in the room for a long time it will eventually get that cold in the fresh food section and pop goes the soda!